On my recent trip to southern Spain, I had the pleasure of exploring one of the country’s most magnificent yet underrated historical treasures: the Alcazaba of Almería. Perched on a hill overlooking the city and the Mediterranean Sea, this sprawling fortress offers not only stunning views but also a deep dive into nearly a thousand years of history.
A Fortress Born of Al-Andalus
The Alcazaba (from the Arabic al-qasbah, meaning “citadel”) was originally built in 955 AD by Abd al-Rahman III, the first caliph of Córdoba. At the time, Almería was an important port city within Al-Andalus, the Muslim-ruled territories of the Iberian Peninsula.
What struck me most was the sheer scale of the complex—it’s the second-largest Muslim fortress in Spain, after the Alhambra in Granada. The Alcazaba was not only a military structure but also a self-contained city, with homes, baths, cisterns, gardens, and a mosque.
Layers of History: Moorish and Christian
As you wander through its walls, you’re literally stepping through layers of time. The original Moorish fortress includes the first two enclosures, where you can still see the remains of Arab cisterns and houses.
In 1489, the Catholic Monarchs—Ferdinand and Isabella—captured Almería, and the Alcazaba was expanded with a third enclosure. This new section, built in the Renaissance military style, features robust walls and towers that reflect the Christian architectural style of the time. It’s a stark contrast to the Islamic designs of the earlier sections.
A Movie Star Fortress
What I didn’t expect was how many films and TV series have been shot here! From Conan the Barbarian to Game of Thrones, the Alcazaba’s dramatic silhouette has provided the perfect backdrop for epic tales. Walking those walls, it’s easy to see why.
Highlights Not to Miss
- The Torre del Homenaje (Keep): One of the most iconic towers in the complex.
- The Water Cisterns: Ingenious medieval water storage systems still visible today.
- Gardens and Views: The reconstructed Islamic-style gardens give a tranquil feel, and the views of the city and sea are spectacular—especially at sunset.
Practical Tips
- Entry is free for EU citizens, and very affordable for others.
- Wear comfortable shoes—there’s a bit of climbing involved.
- Go in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat and catch the best lighting for photos.
Visiting the Alcazaba of Almería felt like stepping into a living time capsule. It’s a place where the stories of Moors and Christians, soldiers and sultans, have been carved into stone. If you’re traveling through Andalusia, make sure you carve out a few hours to experience this remarkable fortress.
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